Sam Timmerman
Meike BarkemaImagine salty hair, sun kissed cheeks and being in the ocean all day. The waves sparkle under the sunlight, and the air is crisp. You are surfing in Portugal. Portugal is the surf paradise of Europe, with Ericeira as its capital. The country has a great variety of waves for every kind of surfer: from beginner to pro. This article will tell you more about it’s history, where to surf, and important facts you may need when surfing. A guide to surfing in Portugal.
History of surfing
It all started in Polynesia. A cave painting of people, on what appeared to be a surfboard, was found. It stemmed from the 12th century. Polynesians brought the sport to Hawaii, and that’s when surfing started to become more than just a sport, it was part of the religion. Surfing as we know it today comes from decades of practicing the sport and building a whole way of living around it in Hawaii. Many other places have adopted these lifestyles and surfing is now a worldwide Olympic sport.
Women’s surfing has a whole different timeline. The first documented surfer was Princess Kalea in 1445. She surfed her first waves on the waves of the Island of Maui, Hawaii. Many women after followed her, but female surfers have always been understated. More than 500 years later, in 1959, Linda Benson was the first woman to surf a big wave and the first women’s surf world championships were held in 1964.
Portugal’s surf history
For a long time, France was considered the birthplace of surfing in Europe. Pieter Viertel and Georges Hennebutte started ‘catching waves’ in Biarritz in 1956. What people don’t know, is that there were people already surfing waves in Portugal back in the 1920’s. This short, black and white video is proof of people bodysurfing in Portugal on what appeared to be surfboards.
The real pioneer of leisure surfing in Portugal is Pedro Martins de Lima. He started surfing as a hobby and was always found in the water. He practiced bodysurfing on a wooden surfboard for a decade. In 1959, bodysurfing became standing up on an actual surfboard. Pedro was an active member in the surf culture in Portugal until he passed away last year at the age of 92. He even has his own documentary about surfing, called: “The wolf of the sea”.
Ten years later, when surfing started booming, the first national surf team was born. The team, made in 1987, competed in the Eurosurf European Surfing Championships in France and came in 4th place.
Now that you know more about the history and culture of Portugal’s surfing world, it’s also helpful to know which waves to surf and in what months. Here are some tips and tricks lined up for you to be ready to discover the waves of Portugal yourself.
Surfing in Portugal: when and where?
With a coastline embracing both the west and south, Portugal stands as a year-round haven for surfers, offering lots of different experiences across the seasons. Whether you’re a beginner seeking gentle waves or an adrenaline junkie chasing monstrous swells, Portugal has something to offer every surfing enthusiast.
Surfing in summer
The best places to go surfing in the summer months, are near the coast of Algarve. Around this time the swells are less frequent, and the waves are smaller. Perfect for beginners but be prepared for crowded beaches full of first timers and surf schools. However, the tourist number hits a peak in the months of July and august. This is seen in many surf villages near the coast.
Surfing in spring
Springtime also sees its fair share of activity, as surfers flock to the northern coast for optimal conditions. The swells are reliably consistent during this season, and the weather remains ideal. This is due to the moderate temperatures and the emergence of trade winds, which can sometimes create choppy waters.
Surfing in autumn
Autumn is the perfect season to go surfing for both novice and experienced surfers. With the summer crowds gone, this time offers optimal conditions for surfing the waves. The warmth of summer makes for warm water, while the sunshine continues to grace the shoreline and enhance the overall surfing experience. This is the right time to visit the surf spots on the central coast, from the famous Peniche and Ericeira to the exciting waves of Lisbon and Nazaré.
Surfing in winter
The winter season is calling all surfers that are up for an adrenaline-packed adventure. Portugal’s winter waves can sometimes be unsortable for surfers, especially along the stormy coasts of Nazaré. This renowned surfing hotspot not only offers monstrous waves, but also hosts exhilarating competitions where fearless riders tackle the planet’s most colossal waves. In October 2020, Sebastian Steudtner etched his name in history by conquering a breathtaking wave surpassing 26 meters, setting a new standard for surfers around the world.
Surf slang
A big part of the surf culture is the language that surfers have developed over time. In the 1950’s and 60’s, when surfing started to go viral in mostly Hawaii and Australia, and the US, surfers also started to create their own way of describing things while surfing. Here’s a little dictionary!
Line up: An area in the water where surfers are waiting for their turn to catch their next wave.
Kook: A surfer (mostly beginners) who is not familiar with surf etiquettes and looks clueless in the water.
Swell: The swell is what surfers call the overall look of the waves. For example: “how’s the swell looking?” or “the swell looks. great today!”
Drop in: Dropping in is when a surfer is paddling onto a wave that somebody else is already riding, it’s considered rude and disrespectful.
Goofy footed vs regular footed: When a surfer is goofy footed, their right foot stands in front of their left foot on a surfboard, regular footed surfers stand with their left foot in front of their right foot.
Pop-up: A pop-up is simply the movement where a surfer goes from laying on their belly, to standing up on their feet on a surfboard.
Wipe-out: If a surfers falls while surfing a wave, it’s called a wipe-out.
Barrel: A wave is barreling when it becomes hollow and a surfer is able to surf through it, also called: “getting pitted”.
Washing machine: When a wave takes you underwater and spins you around. The most important thing to do when this happens: protect your head and stay calm.
“Shaka”: The “Shaka” is an original Hawaiian hand signal that surfers use as a way of greeting each other.
